The Problem with Giving your Bird a Mirror

mirror

You’re worried your bird is not getting enough attention from you. Or maybe it starts out more simple. Perhaps your cockatiel has developed a crush on the toaster or the bathroom sink faucet. What’s wrong with giving your bird a mirror? Everything. Mirrors are psychologically damaging to your bird.

Birds a very social creatures. It is because of their strong flocking instincts that they can make such great pets. Many owners give their pets mirrors because they are afraid their bird will get lonely. If you are giving your bird its due attention and providing it with toys to play with while you are gone, you have no need to think your bird will become lonely.

So what exactly do mirrors do? The first thing most people notice is increased territoriality. Bird behaviorists are often contacted about cockatiels who are so attached to the toaster that they will viciously bite anyone who comes near it. They will isolate themselves from their owners and throw a fit if not near their “buddy.” Sadly, this is a lesser problem that mirrors cause.

The real problem is this: mirrors give your bird an incorrect perception of reality. They are NOT talking to another bird, they are talking to a reflection. Reflections can only mimic- they do not react in the same manner as a real bird would. Think of it this way: you have a young child. This is your only child so instead of letting him play with kids down the street you get him a mirror. The kid spends all his time talking and playing with his reflection. When he turns fifteen years old you send him to high school. How well do you think he’s going to socialize with real people who may not agree with him, may not like his looks, may look different than him, etc?

It is true that not all birds will eventually come into contact with other birds but let’s be realistic here. How do you know that down the line you won’t want another bird? How do you know that something might not occur that will force you to have to sell or give away your bird? Does the possibility that it may never meet another bird justify improper socialization?

Allow me to give you a case in point. In fall of 1999 I adopted a mitred conure, Fry. A woman had caught him outdoors in Southern California. He had been dive-bombing some local gardeners. He stayed with her a year before she ended up giving him to a friend of hers. This lady had him for six years. During that period, he had a mirror on top of his cage and had no access to real birds. His owner had just had a baby when I acquired him. This, and the fact that her husband hated the bird, were her motivations for giving him away.

I brought Fry home and immediately noticed that he lacked the ability to keep himself entertained, an essential skill for pet birds. I offered him plenty of toys but he ignored them. His cage was located on my dresser, which had a large mirror attached to the back. I covered the mirror with a towel but he chewed it to shreds to get to the mirror. I re-covered the mirror and moved the cage out of reach so he couldn’t chew it while inside. About a week later he started playing with the toys. He also became more interested in people. Instead of hanging out on top of his cage all the time or trying to steal my sun conure’s food, he’d jump over to my desk to watch me and Jay-Jay (the sun).

So what do you do if you have a single bird? Though it is not necessary, you can buy a second bird after the first one is tamed. If you do not want two birds, just make sure to give your bird lots of attention and keep those mirrors away! Birds can be kept singly just fine, but access to a mirror will teach them bad habits, as well as make them territorial and withdrawn.

© 1997-2016 by Karen Trinkaus. May not be reprinted or used in any way without the author’s permission.

Choosing a Cage

I get a lot of questions regarding what cage sizes are “adequate” for specific birds. The simple answer to this question has always been “Get the largest one you can afford.” However, picking out the right cage to meet your birds’ needs can be more complicated than that, especially if you are introducing more than one bird or mixing species. There are several things you should take into consideration when choosing a cage.

Height vs. Width
Birds fly side to side, not up and down. When I first started out breeding budgies I had a cage that was about 18″ wide and long and about 4′ high. It might as well have been 24″ high because that’s the extent of it that my budgies used. Birds need space, but not height. Width is much more important. Had the cage been 18″ wide and tall and 4′ long my budgies would have used the entire thing. Stick to rectangular cages that are longer/wider than they are tall.

Bird Size
How big are your birds? A macaw will need a much larger cage than a budgie. Many of the resources I’ve read tell you that the cage should be large enough for the bird to extend its wings without touching the bars, and large enough to turn around in without smacking the side. This is too small. For a hospital cage this would be fine because you are trying to restrict movement; however a day-to-day cage that the bird lives in should be double or triple this size. It should be able to hold two perches spaced greatly apart as well as toys.

Another funny thing about most parrots is that the smaller they are, the more space they need proportionally. Budgies require a huge amount of space when compared to a macaw (not quite to scale, but see below). This is due to their activity level. I cringe every time I see budgies kept in those tiny, blue, house-shaped cages that aren’t even one foot in ANY dimension. This is like a human being forced to live in their shower stall or closet!

Finches, budgies and smaller species typically require a ton of space when compared to a larger species. However, this doesn’t mean you should short-change your larger pets!

Activity Level
One budgie requires 2-3 times as much space as a cockatiel. Why? Because budgies are more active! This is why smaller birds need more space- generally they are much more active than the larger birds. You can see the difference just by picking them up: budgies and most parakeets “jump” onto your finger (or your shoulder, or your head…); parrots usually “step up,” rather than hop to you. Know your species: kakarikis, lovebirds and budgies are all extremely active. Nonpsittacine species like finches, toucans, mousebirds and other “softbills” are all very active. These birds require a huge amount of space no matter what their size- toucans require an aviary, macaws don’t.

This is not to say that all larger parrots are inactive and don’t require much space. It is important to keep in mind the activity level of the individual bird as well. When my mitred conure Fry died, I bought a Goffin cockatoo, Loki. Fry’s cage was brand new, and huge step up from the original cage he came in. Fry was a fairly inactive bird, so it suited him just fine. Loki, who is relatively the same size as Fry was, found this cage abysmally small. Loki is an extremely active bird, and also easily bored, which means that many toys are required to keep her interest. Fry’s cage was barely large enough for three of Loki’s toys, let alone Loki herself. I began searching for a new cage, and ended up getting macaw/large cockatoo cage. The new cage currently contains 12 toys (two more on the playstand above), and there is still room for her to hop about.

lokinewcage

Loki’s new cage (left) vs her old cage (right).

How much time will the bird spend in the cage?
If you work away from home and your bird is locked up all day, then the cage needs to be very large. Like Loki’s cage, it should have plenty of room for toys, and also plenty of room for the bird to hop about. Fry’s cage [barely] had room for either one or the other. It’s easy to overestimate the size of an unfurnished cage. If you’re at a store, try placing a few toys inside to get a better feel for how much room you actually have to work with. If the bird won’t be able to move around much with three toys hanging inside, then the cage is too small. For a bird that is home all day, the cage should be able to fit at least 2-3 perches (one can be a swing), 4-6 toys, food dishes and the bird itself (with room to jump from perch to perch).

Playstands
If the bird is out of its cage for a good portion of the day, then the cage can be smaller. A birdie-safe “play area” will give your bird a change of scenery and allow it to interact more with you. If a bird is out all day (for those lucky people who work at home) the cage can be much smaller because your bird will only be using it at night. Playstands should make up for the lack of cage size and contain plenty of toys, perches and other goodies to keep your bird occupied.

Mutiple Birds and Mixing Species
More birds means more space. Bickering is normal but if certain birds are picked on more than others or if they are fighting over food/water/perches then the cage is probably too small. When mixing species you must take into account what each is like. Nonaggressive species like budgies and tiels can mix but only if the tiels have room to get away from the budgies, whose constant activity will drive them nuts. See my article on Colony Breeding for more tips.

Shapes
No round cages! No cute house-shaped cages! Cages should be designed for birds, not humans. Odd angles trap toes, create unused space and make cleaning and accessing the cage a nightmare. Stick to squares and rectangles.

Bar Spacing and Alignment
Most small species are fine with 1/2 spacing. Larger birds can have wider spacing, just not so wide that they can get their heads caught. Larger birds will also require thicker wire to keep them from chewing through. There should be plenty of horizontal bars. Clipped birds especially require these to help them get around the cage.

barspacing

If your bird can do this, your bar spacing is too wide.

Finish
Many cages are galvanized. This is fine, but the process of galvanizing can leave traces of zinc and other metals on the wire which can kill your bird. Rinse all galvanized cages with a mixture of vinegar-water to remove these trace metals.

Bottom Grate
This feature keeps your birds from picking at dropped food and feces, as well as the substrate (you can use colored newspaper again!). I highly recommend getting a cage with this.

Acrylic Cages
These cages have their own distinct pros and cons. They are designed for optimal visibility and reduced mess. However, they contain no horizontal bars (although some now add a wire “climbing wall”), have reduced ventilation and climate control, and are extremely expensive.

Below are examples of actual cages offered for sale. I’ll start with some bad examples and then give you a few good designs.

cagecrappy1

Coast Cages Sunburst for Parakeets, Canaries & Finches

What’s Wrong

  • Very poor shape design. How is a bird going to utilize that space?
  • This cage is too small to fit any species. It would only be passable as a carrier.
cagecrappy2

Petco Delux Kit for Canary & Finch

“This deluxe starter kit begins with a stylish, quality cage…”

What’s Wrong:

  • Overall poor design and shape. What does “stylish” have to do with birds?
  • Too small for any bird, let alone an active finch.
  • Beware of “starter kits”- they are overpriced and may contain junk you don’t need (and not enough of what you do need).
cagecrappy4

Avian Select Parakeet Cages

What’s Wrong:

  • Round design- perfect for pinching toes.
  • Generally anything on a stand like this is going to be designed for humans and not for birds.
  • Too small, yet again.

Okay, enough of the crappy cages. Here are some good ones.

cage2

Giantex Bird Cage Large

What’s Right:

  • Rectangular design.
  • Adequate size for small/medium parrots
  • Generic playstand included
  • Bottom grate included
  • Metal seed catcher to reduce mess
  • On wheels to ease movement
  • Large, easy-access door and heavy-duty feeding crocks

 

71AJvmyEkFL._SL1500_

Mcage Large Wrought Iron Flight Cage

What’s Right:

  • Large
  • Good bar spacing for small species
  • Plenty of horizontal bars
  • On wheels for easy transport and comes apart

© 1997-2016 by Karen Trinkaus. May not be reprinted or used in any way without the author’s permission.

Budgie (aka Parakeet)

Melopsittacus undultatus

birds-1384136-640x480

 

First a word on definitions: Budgie is the correct term to use when referring to (M. undultatus). Though they are parakeets, a parakeet is any small parrot with a long tail. This includes cockatiels, kakarikis, all the birds in the genus Psittcula, most of the parrots in Australia, and many more. But there is only one budgie.

Two more terms you’ll often hear in reference to budgies are “American” and “English.” These are not separate species, just different breeds (Like dogs are all one species but there are many different breeds. The same goes for cats, chickens, and canaries.). Budgies are have the distinction of being the only psittacine with different breeds. English budgies are bred for show. They are large- about three times the size of an American. Americans are your typical pet shop budgie. All mine are American. I breed for color.

In the Wild
Budgies are native to the deserts of Australia. This means two things:

  1. They are hardy.
  2. They breed like rabbits.

In the desert rain is scarce. Birds who live there have to be able to nest and raise young very quickly whenever food becomes available. This ability to breed constantly has made budgies the most common pet bird in America and led to the establishment of hundreds of designer colors.

 

budgie13

A male (left) trying to attract a female (right).

Noise
Male budgies chatter almost constantly and this is a good indication of a happy bird. Females don’t make much noise. Budgies are one of the top ten talking birds but none of mine have ever said a word.

Lifespan
They can live 10-15 years, sometimes more. Unfortunately, many don’t make it past age five due to tumors.

Sexing
Budgies are very easy to sex, both visually and by behavior. As I stated above, males chatter more than hens. Males will often show off and chatter endlessly when presented with a mirror, but so will some females kept singly. To sex visually you have to look at the cere- the fleshy area surrounding the nostrils. Adult males have a bright blue cere (unless they are a color that contains no black pigment, such as albino or lutino) and females have a crusty brown cere when in breeding condition (all colors). Hens may also have tan or white ceres.

 

budgie10.jpg

A male budgie has a blue cere.

 

budgie04

A female (bottom) has a brown cere.

 

budgie16

Female (left) watching a male feed chicks.

Weaknesses
Budgies are tumor factories. If you take good care of your budgie and suddenly something is wrong with it (paralysis, blindness, etc.) a tumor is a good assumption (of course that doesn’t mean you don’t have to go to the vet). Tumors are usually seen in birds over 3 years of age. I’ve had three cases myself: Moonbeam, age 4, tumor pinched optic nerve and caused blindness; Arnold, age 5, tumor the size of my thumb on his abdomen caused him to stop breeding; Sweatpea, age 4-5, tumor on kidney pressed against spinal cord causing sudden paralysis, looked similar to egg-binding. Psittacosis is also seen frequently in budgies, but this maybe just because they are the most common pet birds.

Husbandry
Budgies are very active and deserve as big a cage as possible. Also, if you plan on owning a single budgie make sure you pay a lot of attention to it. If you can’t please get a second bird to keep it company. Budgies are very social and need other budgies to talk to.

Breeding
Just add a nestbox. Actually you should be more worried about getting them to stop breeding. Usually removing the box after 2-3 clutches will get them to stop, though some hens will continue to lay in their feed dish. Budgies are also prone to all kinds of nitpicky problems when bred communally. Baby budgies usually have stripes all the way down to their cere and a bit of black on their beak.

Diet
Regular psittacine diet. Budgies particularly love leafy green foods like parsely, carrot tops and lettuce.

Personality/Behavior
Budgies aren’t very cuddly, but they make great pets. I started out with one budgie and she’s what got me hooked on birds in the first place. They’re very active and sociable which makes them fun to watch, especially if you have an aviary full of them.

maggie&pepper2

Pepper and Maggie hang out on my brother.

© 1997-2016 by Karen Trinkaus. May not be reprinted or used in any way without the author’s permission.

Which Bird is Right for You?

Not sure what bird is right for you? Check these genus profiles. If a ? is noted it means I don’t have enough experience with the species to say.

tiel03_wfcinpearl_cin

Genus/Common Name Nymphicus
Includes Cockatiels
Size Small.
Talking Ability Limited. Good whistler.
Lifespan 20-25
Noise Quiet, but their contact call may be annoying.
Dimorphic Yes. See my Guide to Sexing Tiels Visually.
Comments See species profile for more information. The cockatiel is a good beginner bird that enjoys being pet more than a budgie.

parrots-in-love-1351846-640x480

Genus/Common Name Lories
Includes Lories and lorikeets.
Size Tiny to medium.
Talking Ability ?
Lifespan ?
Noise Varies.
Dimorphic No.
Comments Very colorful and playful. Specialized diet (expensive and causes squirts).

loki17 Goffin cockatoo

Genus/Common Name Cockatoos
Includes Cockatoos
Size Medium to large.
Talking Ability Varies.
Lifespan 50-80
Noise Quiet to loud. Large species are typically very loud. My Goffin is very quiet.
Dimorphic No.
Comments Very demanding pets, but playful and highly intelligent. They are the cuddliest birds you can find. Difficult to breed. Males known for killing, maiming, and trapping hens during breeding.

male-eclectus-parrot-1350890-639x852

Genus/Common Name Eclectus
Includes Eclectus
Size Medium.
Talking Ability Varies.
Lifespan ?
Noise ?
Dimorphic Very. Males are green and females are red.
Comments Matriarcal. Stunning colors and odd feather texture.

 

scarletchested04

A female scarletchested parakeet.

Genus/Common Name Aussie Keets
Includes Polytelis (suberb, regent, princess), king, Platycerus (rosellas), Psephotus (red-rump, mulga), Neophema (bourke, scarlet-chest, turquoise).
Size Small to medium.
Talking Ability Varies.
Lifespan 10-30
Noise Pleasant.
Dimorphic Some species are.
Comments Good aviary birds but not commonly kept as pets. Rosellas are curious as pets and love to whistle.

 budgies06Budgies come in a variety of colors.

Genus/Common Name Melopsittacus
Includes Budgie.
Size Small.
Talking Ability Very good.
Lifespan 5-15
Noise Constant chattering. Usually not offensive.
Dimorphic Yes.
Comments See species profile for more information. Great beginner pets, but they usually do not come tame.

 

tovi1

 

Genus/Common Name Cyanoramphus
Includes Kakarikis
Size Small.
Talking Ability Good.
Lifespan 10-?
Noise Pleasant.
Dimorphic Yes, but it takes experience.
Comments See species profile for more information. Kakarikis are high energy pets that require a lot of space and supervision. They rarely sit still for long and make very entertaining pets.

lovebird-1-1379868-640x480

Genus/Common Name Agapornis
Includes Lovebirds.
Size Small.
Talking Ability Limited.
Lifespan 10-20
Noise Like budgie only higher pitched.
Dimorphic Some.
Comments Make feisty and curious handfed pets.

colorful-parrot-1381014-639x957

Genus/Common Name Psittacula
Includes Indian ringneck, African ringneck, Alexandrine, plum-head, blossom-head, Derbyan, Moustached.
Size Medium.
Talking Ability Excellent.
Lifespan 20-30
Noise Loud.
Dimorphic Yes.
Comments See species profile for more information. This genus is unfairly labeled “standoffish.” Ringnecks make excellent pets if well socialized. They are highly intelligent, curious and playful. They do tend to be strong willed and require a more experienced or assertive owner.

 

tovi7

Genus/Common Name Poicephalus
Includes Senegal, meyers, cape, jardine’s, brown-head.
Size Medium.
Talking Ability Moderate.
Lifespan 30-40
Noise Quiet.
Dimorphic No.
Comments Good apartment birds. Senegals are the most popular.

 

parrots-1380029-640x480

 

Genus/Common Name Ara
Includes Macaws (extinct/endangered ones in other genus).
Size Medium to large.
Talking Ability Moderate.
Lifespan 80-100
Noise Loud.
Dimorphic No.
Comments Not as popular as once were, perhaps due to size, expense and noise level. They are the larger relatives of conures. Intelligent and playful.

 

jayjay3Sun conures are very popular due to their color.

Genus/Common Name Aratinga.
Includes Most conures. Nanday in another genus but the profile still applies.
Size Medium.
Talking Ability Limited.
Lifespan 30
Noise Loud.
Dimorphic No.
Comments Very loud for size. Playful, curious pets. Very outgoing and fun-loving. Tend to become one-person birds if you let them.

 

gc conureGreencheek conure

Genus/Common Name Pyrrhura
Includes Green-cheek, maroon-belly, pearl, paint and most other small conures.
Size Small.
Talking Ability Limited.
Lifespan 30
Noise Usually quiet.
Dimorphic No.
Comments Good for someone who likes conures but hates noise. These guys are smaller and generally much quieter.

 

 parrot-5-1250337-639x852

 

Genus/Common Name Brotogeris
Includes White-wing, canary-wing, grey-cheek, and other “pocket parakeets.”
Size Small.
Talking Ability Moderate.
Lifespan 30
Noise Loud.
Dimorphic No.
Comments Used to be available in large numbers. Very limited supply since importation stopped and these birds are difficult to breed. Known to be outstanding pets. Most of these birds should probably be in breeding programs though.

 

exotic-parrot-singing-1354249-639x425

Genus/Common Name Poinites
Includes Caique
Size Medium.
Talking Ability ?
Lifespan ?
Noise ?
Dimorphic No.
Comments South American species. Curious and feisty.

 

parrotlet-1366819-639x553

Genus/Common Name Parrotlet
Includes Parrotlet
Size Tiny to small.
Talking Ability ?
Lifespan ?
Noise ?
Dimorphic I think some species are.
Comments These guys are known as “mini amazons.” They have a large attitude for such small birds. They cannot be bred in colonies.

 

south-american-parrots-1362496-640x480

Genus/Common Name Amazona
Includes Amazons
Size Medium.
Talking Ability Excellent.
Lifespan 50-80
Noise Loud.
Dimorphic No.
Comments Outgoing and boisterous. Some species more mellow (mealy, lilac-crown, orange-wing). Can be very aggressive during breeding displays. Get hyper easily. Some, like double yellow heads and yellow napes, love opera and will make up their own songs.

 

pionus4

Genus/Common Name Pionus
Includes Pionus
Size Medium.
Talking Ability Moderate.
Lifespan 50-80
Noise Quiet.
Dimorphic No.
Comments Good apartment birds. Appealing to people who like South Americans but dislike noise.

 

african grey1

Genus/Common Name Psittacus
Includes African grey
Size Medium.
Talking Ability Excellent.
Lifespan 50-80
Noise Quiet but like to pick up household noises to repeat constantly (much to the annoyance of some owners).
Dimorphic No.
Comments Highly intelligent and excellent mimics, but shy and sensitive. Can be badly affected by change if normally kept on a strict schedule. Plucking very common if stressed.

© 1997-2016 by Karen Trinkaus. May not be reprinted or used in any way without the author’s permission.

Colony Breeding

aviary2

Set Up
Colony breeding is something that is best done in an aviary. Nestboxes should obviously be provided for each pair but you should also throw in 2-3 extra so the birds can have their pick. Unused boxes can always be removed once everyone has settled in. Several feed stations and water dishes should be placed in various locations to avoid fights. Never place one nestbox or perch higher than the others because everyone will want to use it. Nestboxes should all be at the same height. Perches can vary in height as long as there are more than one “highest perch.”

budgie07

Feed
Keep in mind that you’ll be feeding a single diet. Birds that require special foods should not be kept in a colony. Likewise, if you have some picky birds or seed junkies you’ll have to feed seed. You can try offering pellets in hopes that your junkies will learn to eat them from your other birds. However, even pellet eaters will usually eat seed instead of pellets if they are provided. The good news is that everyone learns to eat soft foods very quickly.

Non-Breeding Colony
Follow the instructions for picking mixed flight species. Some birds are only aggressive during breeding and many different species of some size variation can be kept safely when there are no nestboxes provided. Retailers often keep birds for sale in such a set up. These work well because no one is interested in breeding and since birds are coming and going all the time no one has time to establish territory.

bird-cage-1393407-1279x852

 

Same Species Colonies
Some species, like budgies, actually thrive in colony situations. Keep in mind that with this type of colony you’ll get a lot of cheating between pairs. If you want strict control of your bloodlines this set up is not for you.

Mixed Colonies
This is how I breed. Most of the Australian keets like budgies, cockatiels and Neophema can coexist fine with similar species. Very closely-related species shouldn’t be kept together to prevent hybridization. The trick to a mixed colony is keeping birds of similar size and temperament. You want calm, small birds that aren’t likely to pick fights with their neighbors.

yf_kaks 008

Semi-Colony Species
Some birds can be bred in same species colonies only if the cage is very large. These birds should always be watched very closely and pulled out at the first sign of real aggression. Birds that fall into this category are Brotogeris, some lovebirds (Fischers usually do okay in colonies), and some conures (Patagonian).

Aggressive Species
Most parrots can’t be bred in colonies. These birds may be fine in a non-breeding colony but will become very aggressive towards any other birds when nesting. They may nip off toes (make sure there they can’t get to the birds in the cage next door), maim or kill. Aussie keets that should be avoided are red-rumps and rosellas. Always look at how species breed in the wild to best determine how to breed them in captivity.

© 1997-2016 by Karen Trinkaus. May not be reprinted or used in any way without the author’s permission.

Shopping for a Bird

 

lovebird-1-1365617-639x511What kind of bird do you want?

The first thing you need to do is decide on the right species. This requires a bit of research and involves you knowing exactly what you want. I have a brief species guide here.

Size
How big do you want your bird? Size plays a large role in other bird characteristics. It can affect noise, the amount you’ll have to spend on a cage and toys, the lifespan and the price. The larger the bird, the more expensive it will be to set up and maintain.

Lifespan
Larger birds generally live longer. Budgies can live up to 15 but often die much earlier due to malnutrition or tumors. Cockatiels and other big smaller birds like conures and Senegals can live from 20-30. Most of the parrots like amazons and African greys can live 50-80. Macaws have been known to make it to 100. A larger bird means a much longer commitment.

Price
In general, the bigger the bird the larger the price tag. Species that are less common or more difficult to breed will also cost more. Galahs and Goffins are both similarly-sized cockatoos but Galahs are far more expensive. Newly-developed colors can also cost quite a bit.

Noise
Many parrots scream. If you live in an apartment or can’t handle a loud animal then you need to factor this into your decision. Volume isn’t the only thing to take into account though- if possible, research what your preferred species sound like. Sometimes a particular noise will be bothersome to you but not others.

exotic-parrot-singing-1354249-639x425

 

Character
Each species varies in character and it’s very important to pick one that you can get along with. Some people like cuddlers while others prefer boisterous birds that are more hands-off.

Availability
It’s no use picking a species that is very rare and belongs in a breeding program (unless that’s why you’re searching for it). Some species are available year-round while others will have babies at certain times of the year. If you’re adopting you may have a harder time finding your preferred species. Certain states in the U.S. breed more birds and will have a better selection.

Speech
This is the last quality in the world to be looking for in a bird. Anyone who picks a species solely on it’s ability to talk is making a grave mistake. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a nice thing to have, but it’s only the icing on the cake.

Once you’ve decided on a species you still need to buy it. The following are things you need to look for while you’re actually out shopping.

Movement
Birds that are moving around in the cage and making lots of noise are often healthy, happy birds.

Appearance
The bird should look healthy. Colors should be bright. Feathers, eyes, vent, nostrils and everything else should be clean.

parrot-1572979-639x961

This bird is sick. It’s slouching and it’s feathers are a bit ruffled and unkempt.

 

 

macaw-1246525-640x480

These birds appear healthy: clear eyes, neat feathers, ACTIVE posture.

Other Birds in the Cage
Check the other birds in the cage. Do they look bad? If so you’d best move along. Maybe they are ill and the one bird you like just isn’t displaying any symptoms yet.

Age
Recently I’ve seen more people pushing others to adopt birds rather than buy a baby. As a breeder I’m obviously biased, but I’ve taken in my share of older birds and I really don’t recommend it to novice owners. You’ll have no idea what kind of behavior problems a used bird may have, nor the experience to combat said problems. Training will be much more difficult. Underlying health problems are also a concern. You just don’t know what you’re getting. If you are new to birds I highly recommend getting a baby from a reputable source. You’ll be starting with a clean slate.

Price
In general don’t buy from pet stores. Their price will be double that of anything offered by a private breeder. Shop around to get an idea of what the usual price is.

Source
Again, avoid pet stores, especially if they are a larger chain like Petco. They have no business selling live animals and often buy animals from large scale wholesalers. The only exception would be a store that specializes in birds and has a good relationship with several reputable breeders.

The seller can tell you a lot about the bird being offered. You want to buy from someone who is knowledgeable, helpful, knows the bird’s history, and is reputable. If the seller is junk most likely the birds will be too.

© 1997-2016 by Karen Trinkaus. May not be reprinted or used in any way without the author’s permission.

The Pros and Cons of Owning Parrots

Pro: Intelligence

Psittacines, along with Corvids, are among the most intelligent birds. It is often estimated that larger parrots can understand concepts on par with human preschoolers.

Con: Birds are messy

Birds are some of the messiest pets you can get. Expect to find seed sprouting in your carpet or sink. Your carpet may feel crunchy. Forget seed guards- nothing will ever stop your birds from flinging all they can as far as they can. I’ve had budgies take baths in their seed.

The best defense against mess indoors: Buy plastic carpet protectors and put them beneath and all around your cages. If you’re handy you can attach plexiglass sheets to the back and sides of your cages, which should reduce the spray. Clear shower curtains hung behind your cages will save your walls from being splattered with fruit.

Pro: Many species can Talk

Parrots and a few other birds have the amazing ability to mimic human speech (some so well that there are cases where a person was invited into the house mistakenly by the family bird) . Birds can often understand what they are saying, though it depends on how they were taught. Avian intelligence research with an African grey named Alex found that parrots can correctly count to six, identify shape, color, size, and substance.

Many birds have even been known to make up words for ones they don’t like or can’t pronounce. One grey, Arrow, named its owner “Joba.”Alex made up the word “banerry” when introduced to apples, because they looked like cherries but tasted a bit like banana.

In the wild birds use sound to communicate with each other. This is why they pick it up so easily in captivity. They naturally want to learn the language of their flock. This is also why they can understand it so well- better than dogs.

Con: Not all Birds Talk

Even if a species is known for its talking ability, there is no guarantee it will ever learn to talk and it is unreasonable to buy a bird solely for speech. In fact, many birds prefer to whistle or imitate sounds around the house like the microwave or doorbell. These sounds are much closer to natural bird calls and are picked up very easily. This also means you could have a bird on your hands that beeps, rings, coughs, and creaks all day long.

Pro: Variety of Size and Color

Parrots come in a wide variety of sizes and colors. Do your research to find out which species would be most compatible for you.

Con: Aesthetics Mean Little if the Species is Incompatible

The first time I ever saw a rainbow lorikeet I was amazed. What a beautiful bird! And so playful! Then I found out what lorikeets ate.

Regardless of what you find most attractive, always keep in mind that not every bird is going to work with your living situation. Live in an apartment? Then you probably don’t want an amazon. Birds are not curtains or plants. They are living, social creatures and their needs should be met.

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Pro: Birds are Very Social

Birds make great pets! They are playful, cuddly and sweet. Unlike dogs, they don’t have to be taken for walks or played with. Most are content just hanging out on or with their favorite person. Good owners like to let their birds out as often as possible. Many of us watch TV, read and work on the computer with our birds.

Con: Birds can be Demanding

Parrots are very social, as they live in flocks in the wild. Unlike a dog, which is generally allowed to follow you around the house, birds are often confined to one area. This can lead to panicked screaming if you leave the room. They want to know where you are! If you can’t spend a decent amount of time with your pet every day I recommend getting a second bird. It doesn’t even have to be the same species- just someone they can talk to and hang out with when you’re not around. A bird left alone without much to do is going to develop behavior problems.

Pro: Birds Live a Long Time

My sister used to subscribe to Cat Fancy, while I got Bird Talk. One month both came in the mail the same day. Cat Fancy had an article on coping with the loss of your cat; Bird Talk had one on making sure your parrot is well provided for after your death. Even many small birds could easily outlive a cat or dog, whose average lifespan is only 15 years. Budgies (parakeets) can live about that long. With good care cockatiels usually make it to their twenties, small parrots can live to their 30’s or 40’s, and large parrots can live to be over 80! With good care your pet bird will be with you a long time.

Con: Birds Live a Long Time

What will happen to your bird when you go to college? Move? Enter a serious relationship? Have children? Birds live long enough that they will be there to see you through many of life’s transitions. Buying a bird, especially a large one, is a lifetime commitment. It’s like adopting a child. You may even have to set up a trust fund for your bird. Birds often end up in uncaring hands of family members once their human has passed. You need to make sure you have a plan in place to care for your pet if something happens.

© 1997-2016 by Karen Trinkaus. May not be reprinted or used in any way without the author’s permission.

Feisty Feathers is Upgrading!

My website has badly needed a facelift for several years. I am in the process of updating it from the 90’s horror that it is to a more modern format (social media links instead of lame animated gifs!). I have a lot of articles to update/move so this could take a while.

FeistyFeathers.com is still up and running if you want to read all my articles, but it will be retired (or rather, redirected) after I move everything over. Thank you for your patience!

Multiple Pet Birds Sharing Spaces

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This is what consent looks like.

I been seeing a discomforting trend lately on Facebook- a lot of inexperienced people are allowing their birds to play together with minimal supervision. While this may seem rather innocuous, it can lead to brutal injuries when the birds clash.

One post, since deleted, was a long rant about the “hidden costs” of owning birds. The owner complained about spending well over $3000 on veterinary bills for a single bird. The aggressive conure had had wings broken on two separate occasions during altercations with other birds. After X-rays and surgery, the bird had amazingly recovered the ability to fly. The owner decided to keep it in its cage, but still allowed other birds access to climb on it. This conure was known to be very territorial of its cage. Not surprisingly, another bird ended up with a severely lacerated/crushed ankle that would likely need to be amputated.

Another man posted a video of his amazon propositioning his Goffin cockatoo, with the caption “please explain.” It was very clear from the body language that the Goffin was not happy. It was about as far removed as possible without flying to a new location. It was at a lower perch position, making it even more defensive. It was likely that the amazon kept encroaching into the Goffin’s personal space until it had ended up where it was- with no place to go. Any time the amazon got too close the Goffin would threateningly open its beak. When the amazon’s posture returned to normal the Goffin relaxed slightly. This went back and forth for a while.

The above interaction didn’t lead to a fight, but it certainly could have. The owner also reported that the amazon had begun getting aggressive towards anyone who tried to handle the object of his affection. Thankfully, the owner had the good sense to separate the birds after he found out what the body language meant.

Most people are reasonably familiar with dogs and cats. Even when they anthropomorphize their pets they generally don’t make mistakes that are quite as grievous. Dogs have cohabitated with humans for so long that the ability to read humans is built into their domestication. One study demonstrated that even puppies with no prior training will pay attention to where a human is pointing. Human children don’t even pick up that skill until around the same time they begin to walk!

Parrots, on the other hand, are not domesticated and have comparatively weird body language. It makes their behavior a lot harder to interpret without practical experience. Allowing pet parrots to share the same space when you don’t have a comfortable working knowledge of bird body language is a recipe for disaster.

© 1997-2016 by Karen Trinkaus. May not be reprinted or used in any way without the author’s permission.