Bathing

March 16, 2016April 19, 2017 / feistyfeathers / 1 Comment

It is important to allow your birds the opportunity to bathe, though it’s not something you need to force (unless it’s super hot). During those hot summer months it is very important to keep your birds cool. Each species usually has its own preferences when it comes to bathing, and birds from humid climates may do things differently than those from arid regions. Keep in mind that the rainy season signals breeding in some species, and excessive bathing may trigger hormonal behaviors.

Spray Misting

Some birds will run away from the spray in terror while others will flip upside-down and spread their wings in joy. Cockatiels are mist bathers, even if some of them don’t know it. During the summer I mist my flight tiels and most of them enjoy it. One of the ways to get a bird interested in spray baths is not to directly hit them with the spray. Try aiming off to the side, perhaps at another bird. Many tiels get into bathing mode when just a little bit of the mist from the spray next to them floats over. Amazons and other South American species also enjoy this type of bathing. When misting try not to hit the bird in the face or directly unless they are really getting into the pleasure of the bath. Instead spray just above them so that the mist falls down on their back.

Cockatiels enjoy spray misting.

Share a Shower

You can put your bird up on the shower curtain rod (just make sure a towel or something is up there so they don’t slip), or buy a shower perch. Many birds really enjoy showering with their owners.

Dish Bathing

Offering a wide, flat dish with water is a great way to encourage bathing, especially if you don’t have time to mist your bird or let them share a shower. Many pets will try to squeeze into their water dish. This is one of the reasons why I dislike water bottles (always provide a bowl of water in addition to a bottle). If your bird is already trying to bath in its water dish it’s just one easy step for you to provide a larger bathing bowl. Some birds are hesitant about bathing in a bowl. I found that playing in the water with your hand or letting a constant stream of water from the sink trickle in helps. I got my greencheek conure to bath in a bowl I’d hold over the sink or in the sink itself. She always wanted the water running.

One thing you’ll notice is that dish bathers tend to be a bit more nervous about their baths. In the wild this type of bathing is dangerous because pools are great area for predators to catch their prey off-guard. Wet birds also can’t fly as well. Cages are considered by most birds to be “safe” areas so this nervousness usually only occurs when a bird is asked to bath somewhere away from the cage. Reassure your bird by talking to it, playing some soft music in the background or playing in the water yourself. Never leave a dish bather alone during a bath- you are their lookout for predators. Leaving can give them a fright and shatter their willingness to take baths in the future.

A budgie bathing in wet parsley.

Leaf Bathing

This type of bathing is unique to some Australian parakeets, like budgies. Budgies will actually take wet leaves and roll around on them and wrap themselves up in them. You can sometimes mist them while they are doing this or get them to leaf bath by misting first. Provide large, wet lettuce leaves.

When Your Bird is Sick

March 16, 2016May 11, 2018 / feistyfeathers / 1 Comment

Posted by Kendra on January 04, 2002 at 12:41:12:

Hello all. I have some sad news, my little girl Luna passed away last night. I had taken her to an emergency vet on New Year’s Day after I noticed her constant fluffing, lethargy and diarrhea for nearly a day previous. I should have taken her in sooner. I have posted a memorial message in her honor on the memorials page. Please, please, please take your keet to see a vet without delay if he or she starts exhibiting these symptoms. The vet said that, had I brought Luna to him sooner, it might have saved her life. Please don’t make the same mistake I did. Take care of your little ones as though they are your own children.

Why every sick bird is an EMERGENCY

What is the first thing you do after buying a dog? You take it to the vet for vaccinations! Dogs and cats require more routine trips to the vet than birds do, yet most bird owners refuse to take their bird even once when their pet is critically ill.

BIRDS ARE NOT MAMMALS. People too often see bird illness like their own- just annoying symptoms that aren’t very serious. Birds can take injury quite well, but illness is another matter. In the wild an unhealthy bird can attract predators, spread disease and may be driven out of the flock. Because of this they do their very best to hide the fact that they are ill. Experienced breeders will notice illness early, but by the time a pet owner sees their bird is sick, the condition is very serious. Tack onto this the delay an owner makes before bringing the bird to a vet, and you have an animal at death’s door. Even worse, the owner may not seek veterinary care, thinking things will just get better on their own, and the bird winds up dead.

If a bird acts ill:

Isolate it from your flock and keep it in a warm, quiet place.
Take it to the vet as soon as possible.
Do NOT try to treat it yourself.

Many owners are actually more likely to seek vet care if their bird is bleeding or injured than if the bird is sick. While injury can certainly be serious, it is usually not life-threatening (except for cat attacks). I’m not saying that you shouldn’t take a bird to the vet if it is injured, but that you need to view illness as being much more dangerous.

How to Know if your Bird is Sick

Birds mask signs of illness. Usually the owner will sense something is “off” before they can point to actual symptoms.

decrease in weight
decrease in appetite
lethargy
not as interested in play
voice change or decrease in vocalizations
drastic change in poop that is unrelated to food change

Choosing a Vet

Not everyone has the luxury of being able to choose their vet. Extremely rural areas may have only livestock vets to choose from, or none at all. If you are lucky enough to live somewhere like Southern California, you’ll have your choice of vets. Don’t be afraid to be picky. It is your pet’s life! Beware of vets claiming to be “avian specialists” or something like that. Not all vets are qualified to treat birds. Try to stick to vets that are members of the Association of Avian Veterinarians. Members of this organization are more likely to be up to date on current research, treatments, and other information. They may not be completely qualified either, but at least they’ll be working on it and have access to better information. See the AAV website for a list of members in your area.

Aside from being an AAV member, there is one other quality I require of my own vets: communication skills. They’ve got to be willing to talk to me about the problem itself and the options for treatment. Cost estimates are also important.

The Initial Visit

Ideally, the first visit should take place immediately after purchase, for several reasons. It gives you the chance to get a feel for the vet before really needing one. It gives the vet a chance to see your bird when it is (hopefully) healthy. The bird’s normal weight will be recorded and will help provide a reference point for later exams. The vet can talk to you about basic bird care. Do you know why exotic animal exams generally cost $10 more than cat and dog exams? It is because they typically take longer- the vet may have to spend an hour giving the owner a lecture on the proper diet. You might learn key information on the first visit that will keep your bird healthy and prevent further visits. There’s also the possibility that you bought a sick or unweaned bird. Most breeders are reasonable and give you 24 hours to see a vet and verify the bird’s health. Some places now offer a free vet exam with purchase. If something is wrong you can catch it right away and return the animal.

What to Expect

Most visits include only a physical exam. The vet will weigh your bird and look it over. They may listen to pulse/breathing, check the vent, mouth, etc. Depending on the problem they may send you away with medication or recommend that tests be run. All sick birds look pretty much the same. Unless tests are run, the initial diagnosis a vet makes for a bird is typically an educated guess. This does NOT mean that the vet doesn’t know what he/she is doing. In many cases this initial diagnosis is correct. Vets know we aren’t made of money and that most people are unwilling to pay the added cost for cultures or bloodwork. Many won’t even bring up the topic during an initial visit. However, if the first treatment fails YOU NEED TO LET THE VET KNOW. It’s not as if everything is settled once you leave the practice. Like I said, it is often just an educated guess. If it happens to be wrong how will the vet know unless you say something? Bring the bird back as many times as needed to fix the problem. My current vet has no extra charge for rechecks (additional procedures cost more, but the exam does not).

Lab work is always better when performed before any medications have been given. If a bird has been on antibiotics or other meds this can mess up the results. If you want the vet to do labwork before any medications are prescribed, ask for it!

Antibiotics kill bacteria. Each antibiotic attacks only certain types. Most vets start out with a wide spectrum (common/general types) and move on to something more specific if that doesn’t work. Antibiotics do NOT work against fungi or viruses and should only be used under veterinarian supervision.
Anti fungals kill fungi. Antibiotics can promote the growth of fungi so many vets will prescribe this along with antibiotic treatments. If you have reason to believe that your bird has a fungal infection, demand that your vet provide an antifungal in addition to an antibiotic.
Lactobacillus (it may be called something else) is “friendly bacteria.” We need bacteria to live. Much of our digestion is aided by beneficial bacteria in our intestines. This bacteria also helps by giving bad species little or no room to colonize. If a bird is on long or harsh antibiotic treatments a vet will usually prescribe this to increase the good bacterial population.
Blood Panels are more for detecting if their is a problem. They don’t help much with diagnosis but a vet can look at a panel and see if anything is amiss. Certain problems will affect different parts of a blood panel. This procedure is best for annual exams and cases where the bird has been treated but nothing seems to be working (the panel may point the vet in another direction).
X rays are used to see abnormalities that might show up: masses, fractures, ingested metals, tumors, etc.
Cultures are used to determine what exact species is the culprit of an infection. Like I stated before, antibiotics each treat a specific range of bacteria. A culture will help the vet narrow down which bacterial/fungal species needs to be dealt with.

What you need to do

Animals can’t tell the vet what is wrong. You need to tell the vet everything. I’m dead serious- every little detail about their illness. You see the animal every day and you’ll notice tiny abnormalities that a vet couldn’t notice. Write down/type the answers to all these questions and bring them with you to the veterinarian.

What are the symptoms?
Behavioral changes?
Breathing problems, voice changes or discharge?
Decreased vocalizations, eating or play?
Any changes in the animal’s environment?
Has the animal been chewing on anything weird?
Do the feces look any different than normal? If yes, describe.
When did the symptoms first start? How have they progressed?
List any weights you’ve taken, from older to more recent.
Has the bird been treated for anything previously? (if at another hospital)

Start writing down the answers as soon as you notice something is wrong. Wait too long and you may not be able to remember subtle changes or when the symptoms first occurred. If you have a food scale, weigh your bird (in grams) and bring your records with you.

Detecting Early Signs of Illness

The best preventative medicine is quality care. A good diet is extremely important to keeping your bird healthy. There is absolutely no excuse for feeding your bird a seed-only diet. If you are having trouble getting your bird to try new foods, go here.

Buy a gram scale and weigh your bird monthly or even weekly. Weight loss is a good indication of illness and will show up before most other symptoms. Some fluctuation is normal but the weight should not be steadily going down. Drastic changes in weight suggest a serious problem. However, not all sick birds lose weight so don’t rely on this alone. If a bird acts sick and the weight is fine you still need to see a vet. The bird may have a mass/growth that makes it seem heavier when it is in fact losing weight.

If you only have a few pets take them in for annual vet exams. You’ll want a physical, weights taken and a blood panel done.

What to Feed Your Bird

March 16, 2016December 30, 2016 / feistyfeathers / 5 Comments

diet

Malnutrition is the #1 Cause of Illness in Birds
Birds need a good diet just like every other animal. A poor diet creates a bird with a myriad of problems. It can lead to obesity, tumors and diabetes. It also compromises the immune system, making the bird more susceptible to infections. Even so, most people aren’t feeding their birds right. Many give them only seed and water, the equivalent of a bread and water diet in humans. Usually this is due to ignorance.

My Bird Won’t Eat That…
Feeding your birds a nutritional and varied diet is THE most important thing you can do to keep them healthy. If you are having trouble converting your bird please see Getting Your Bird to Try New Foods. Below are the three reasons birds typically won’t convert:

They do not recognize the item as food.
The food is being presented wrong.
The owner isn’t being persistent enough.

Birds do have their preferences, but they should also be willing to accept a variety of foods. My birds get a veggie mix of green beans, Lima beans, carrots, corn and peas. Most of my birds go for the corn first and then consume all but the carrots. Fry, my mitred conure, will eat everything but the Lima beans. Ringnecks will eat the carrots. Peas are my kakarikis’ first choice. Both corn and peas are high in starch. Fry loves all bread products. He often shares breakfast with me. He will ignore everything else and go for the bread, eating all but the “crust,” even on muffins. This doesn’t mean he won’t eat non-bread items. If I place an item in his dish he will eat it. If I’m eating something he will want some too (we’re sharing a chicken tamale as I write this). When a bird does not have access to a favorite food, it has to eat what is available.

kakchicks_june15b

My Seed is Better Than Your Seed…
You probably buy a seed mix with “fortified” or “gourmet” on the package, right? I’ll let you in on a little secret about seed mixes: one is just as good as another. While you’re paying $6.49 for 2 lbs. of that “Fiesta Fortified Gourmet Bird Food” I’m paying $8.25 for 25 lbs. of plain seed. Many stores sell seed mixes that contain just seed. Sometimes these mixes aren’t even a name brand or are packaged in-store. They are much cheaper.

“But wait! The seed I buy contains dried fruits, veggies and nutrient supplements!”

Does your bird actually eat any of those dried items, or does it just pick out the seeds? I’ve found that birds a much more likely to try new foods if they are offered in a separate dish. If pellets are mixed in with seed (like manufacturers suggest) they are often ignored. The bird will just eat its seeds and dismiss the foreign item. Offer new items in a different bowl.

Vitamin supplements do not work with seed mixes. If a seed mix claims to contain supplements what it means is that vitamins are sprayed onto some of the seeds. However, because all psittacines husk their seed before eating it, the vitamin-coated exterior is cast aside and only the uncoated seed itself is consumed. It is best to leave seed plain and supplement by offering other foods.

Wet greens double as a bath for budgies.

Pellets vs. Seed
Seed is like bread- it’s good, but in no way a complete diet. If bread is all you eat eventually you will have many problems due to malnutrition. Seed is perfectly healthy if it is supplemented with other foods. Some seeds are higher in fat than others, like sunflower, peanuts and safflower. These should be avoided, especially in species that are prone to obesity (Galahs, amazons, budgies). A few species can tolerate high fat but not many. You can increase the nutritional content of seeds by sprouting them. In the wild birds eat seed still growing on the plant. The dry seed we offer our birds is nowhere near as nutritious as sprouted.

Pellets are designed to be a complete diet. They provide all the vitamins and minerals a bird needs. This means you should NOT offer other foods, especially not cuttlebone, mineral block or vitamins. You risk either overdosing or diluting your bird’s intake by feeding other foods with pellets. The downside of pellets is that they can be expensive and there’s no psychological benefit to feeding them. Birds like to forage and play with their food and pellets are kinda boring.

The bulk of my current diet is seed. Pellets are offered in a separate dish, and yes, the birds do eat them even though they have seed. Every day I also offer a fresh or cooked food. This could be frozen veggies, fresh greens, fruit, pasta, eggs or Crazy Corn. These items are rotated so that every day the birds get a different fresh/cooked food.

Vitamin & Mineral Supplements
Birds have dry mouths. Vitamins are utterly useless when sprinkled on seed or dry foods. Putting them in water does no good either as they will only lose their potency and provide a breeding ground for bacteria. If you do want to use vitamin supplements, sprinkle them on your wet foods.

All birds on a seed diet should be offered cuttlebone and/or mineral block.

Grit should NOT be offered to psittacines. All hookbills husk their seed before consuming it, hence they have no need for grit. Some birds will also consume massive quantities of grit which will impact their crop. Grit is fine for softbills (birds that do not husk their seed like doves and finches).

Feeding a Varied Diet

So what do birds need? Tony Silva probably explains it best. Basically anything that a health food nut would eat is what birds should be eating: lots of vegetables, some fruits, low-fat, low-salt, grains, etc. Use your imagination! Try some of my recipes. Here’s a better idea of what you can feed: corn, peas, carrots, carrot tops, beans (must be COOKED!), legumes, rice (must be COOKED!), pasta, chicken, bread, egg, Crazy Corn, grapes, mangos, apples, peaches, pears, apricots, plums, kiwi, berries (whatever kind is in season), parsley, chickweed and bananas. This is just to give you an idea. You can feed much more than this. Keep it varied.

Fresh sunflower is a big hit.

Sprouting seed will make it far more nutritious.

Skewers can make foods more entertaining.

Making “chop.” Dicing up ingredients and freezing them in baggies allows you to quickly serve quality food later with minimal prep.

Whole foods offer enrichment as well as nutrition.

Special notes on Iceburg Lettuce and Spinach:
Iceburg lettuce has no nutritional value. It’s basically all water. Spinach contains a chemical which binds to calcium, making it unable to be absorbed by the body (so much for Popeye). It is healthy but should only be fed sparingly.

Don’t forget to give your bird fresh water too. Change it everyday. Some birds like to dunk food in their water or use it as a toilet. Sometimes moving the dish to another location may help. If not, you’ll just have to change the water more often or switch to a water bottle. The rule of thumb is if you wouldn’t drink it, change it.

Toxic Foods and Things to Avoid

avocado
chocolate
fruit pits
apple seeds
alcohol/caffeine/smoke/drugs
dairy ( birds can’t digest lactose)
onion & garlic (only ok in very small amounts)
uncooked beans/rice
peanuts (they can harbor aspergillus)
tomato leaves

Here is a more extensive list of toxic things.

Mammal bacteria is also dangerous. Do not allow your birds to share food with the dog/cat or drink from their water bowls. Likewise, do not allow your birds to take food from your own mouth. If you are going to share food give them their own plate or at least don’t offer them anything your mouth has touched.

Introducing New Foods

March 15, 2016March 20, 2016 / feistyfeathers / 2 Comments

flock

You’ve read up on what you should feed your bird to keep it healthy. Unfortunately, you and your bird seem to differ on what is healthy. New foods are either ignored or flung aside for the good old seed. Here are a few methods for getting your bird to try new foods.

The “Good Stuff” Dish
This is the best method for getting a seed junkie to try wet foods. First you have to find a non-seed food that your bird already likes. There is always something. Usually even picky birds can’t resist wheat bread or a frozen veggie mix. With small species you can try greens like parsley or carrot tops. Once you find a food other than seed that it will eat offer it the same time every day, in the same area of the cage, in the same dish. The goal is to make the bird associate that dish with something tasty.

After a week or two start offering something else into the dish every other day. You can mix it together with the old food or just offer the new food by itself. Keep this up and pretty soon the bird should eat any item placed in that dish.

Pellets
Several pellet manufacturers recommend mixing pellets in with seed and slowly increasing the proportion. I’ve found this method counterproductive, as many birds think the pellets are inedible and will throw them aside. Instead, offer the pellets in a completely different dish. Birds are more likely to try this new “toy” than something invading their seed bowl. Roudybush also has several other methods of introduction.

Tutoring
Ever notice how pets always want what you’re eating? Birds follow the examples of their peers. If you have one bird that eats pellets you can usually get your others to do the same by letting them watch. Borrow a friend’s bird to help teach yours if you have to. You can also try pretending to eat the pellets.

Looks Like Seed
Some brands of pellets, like Kaytee Exact cockatiel size, look a lot like seed. Other foods that have a seed-like consistency may be tried more readily, like wheat bread, cereal and sprouted seed. When trying to get your bird onto a different diet any food variety is important no matter how small. If you can get them to try one new thing you can gradually get them to try other things as well.

Mitred Conure: Fry

March 15, 2016March 20, 2016 / feistyfeathers / 1 Comment

“Butthead”

I was at the vet getting a button quail treated. Dr. Levoy walked in and told me he had a lady in the lobby looking to get rid of a conure. After my appointment was over I found her in the lobby. She was a younger woman, late twenties or early thirties, and was carrying a newborn baby. She explained that she had a mitred conure she was trying to find a home for. It had been in her care for six years. The fact that she’d just had a baby and her husband hated the bird’s noise had forced her to get rid of it. Right now the bird was staying at her parent’s house. Apparently the bird took many such “vacations” to appease the husband. I gave her my phone number and she said she’d call as soon as the bird was back at her house. After a few weeks and no call, I virtually forgot about the incident.

About six weeks after the chance meeting, I got a message on my answering machine regarding the conure. Was I still interested, and if so would I call back and arrange a time to see it? I called her back and agreed to come view the bird.

The bird’s first owner was a woman who’d caught him outdoors. Apparently he’d been dive-bombing some gardeners. He stayed with her a year and then was given to her friend, the woman I’d met. She in turn had had him for six years. The conure was also open-banded, probably with a quarantine band. Considering the history, it was at least eight years old if not more.

I wasn’t expecting much when I arrived at her home. I kept envisioning a bird in a small, dirty cage, with poor plumage and a fierce bite. Imagine my surprise to find a very healthy-looking bird. It was bright-eyed and alert and had excellent plumage. I scanned the cage. It was much too small, but at least it was clean. On top was a T stand, bathing dish, mirror and a single wooden toy. Inside the cage the conure eyed me warily. The woman let him out. I didn’t approach him but instead asked a ton of questions regarding his background.

His owner actually knew quite a bit more than most do. She knew she had a mitred conure. She’d read up on the proper diet but had been unable to convert him. The bird had become so picky that it would eat nothing but safflower seed, white bread and apples (no skin). She said he liked to hang out on the T stand by the mirror but would also climb down the cage and wander around the floor. Among her reasons for getting rid of him was her fear that he would hurt the new baby. He also wouldn’t be receiving as much attention. And of course there was the husband, who’d nicknamed the conure “Butthead.” After spending a good hour probing with my questions, I decided to take him. The bird came free with cage, T stand, mirror, toy, bowl and seed. Had it not appeared so healthy I would not have taken it.

Fry

On the ride home my new bird was rather nervous, but let one good shriek loose. Damn, he was loud.

I renamed the bird Fry. My influence for the name came from two sources: the movie Pitch Black and TV show Futurama. Both have characters by that name, the latter in which the character is a redhead. Aside from these sources, I’d never even heard of that name. “Fry” just had a certain ring to it that appealed to me.

The first thing I learned about Fry was that he didn’t like hands. Aside from that he was fairly tame. If you offered him a finger he’d scramble to get away; if you offered him your arm he’d hop right on. Despite being the largest bird I’ve ever owned, he’s also a strong flier (or jumper) when clipped. I placed his cage on top of my dresser which, unfortunately, had a built-in mirror. The cage was still too small, but it was all I had at this point.

fry03

Changing Diets

Jay-Jay also shared my room with Fry and helped me break his finicky eating habits. If I can get a bird that ate nothing but apple, white bread and safflower seed for six years to eat whatever I offer, YOU can get your birds on a healthy diet. Fry’s owner had tried to get him on a better diet, but he refused to eat anything but the above listed items. I got him eating anything in two weeks.

Jay-Jay’s cage was across the room from Fry’s. Every day I cooked up a meal for the two of them after I got off work. Both dishes were the same style but varying colors. Jay-Jay always dove right for the food. Fry wasn’t stupid. He knew that whatever Jay-Jay was eating in her bowl was most likely the exact same thing in his bowl. It not only seemed edible, but delicious. Jay-Jay could hardly contain herself when she saw the bowls coming. The second day after offering food in this manner, Fry started picking at whatever was in the dish. I mostly fed Crazy Corn, birdie bread and veggies. Every few days or so I’d offer apples too.

In addition to using Jay-Jay as a model, I also used myself. Some time in the afternoon I’d make myself a meal, usually fried eggs and toast or slices fruit, and bring the birds into the kitchen to share it. Fry was nervous around me and the new room so I started out by placing him on the back of a chair across the table while Jay-Jay and I ate. After a few days Fry would jump onto the table and cautiously sneak some food before scurrying back. The toast tempted him more than anything. Jay-Jay always went for the egg yolk.

Fry cautiously “stealing” some oranges.

A quick aside on sharing foods:
Give birds their own food to eat. Do not allow them to eat anything your mouth has touched. Mammal bacteria can be dangerous for birds and human mouths in particular are bacterial cesspools. Likewise, try not to eat anything they’ve picked at or stepped on. Though it is unlikely you will catch anything, you still don’t know where those birdie feet and mouths have been. How many times have you seen your bird chewing its own dried feces at the bottom of the cage? Always practice proper hygiene with animals.

The Mirror

Fry had a mirror for six years. When I first adopted him I continued to allow him access to it on top of his cage, but draped a towel over my dresser mirror. What more harm could it do?

When he was out of the cage he spent of time just sitting in front of the mirror. He never touched a toy, but took great delight in flying across the room to torment Jay-Jay. He would barge into the cage to eat her seed while she hid inside her Happy Hut.

Fry was downright hostile towards most birds. Jay-Jay seemed to be an exception, maybe because she was larger and a conure as well. Once I had to hospitalize a breeder tiel in the same room. I left for literally a few seconds to fill the water dish when I heard shrieking. I ran back to my room. Fry had flown across the room to the tiel’s cage, pulled its leg through the wire and was in the process of shredding it. The poor bird was already ill and now had to deal with this trauma. I believe it died that night. Embarrassed and ashamed, I brought the poor thing in for a necropsy, making sure the vet knew the leg had been injured post-illness. The results revealed that the cockatiel had been ill due to gout, something I couldn’t have done anything about. I still felt awful about the incident though.

After that I took Fry’s mirror away. He quickly chewed a hole in the towel covering my dresser through the cage bars. A huge hole. Now he didn’t even want to come out of the cage that often, except to harass Jay-Jay. Eventually I re-covered the mirror with a new towel and moved the cage an inch forward, hoping this time it would be out of reach. It was. Fry began to play with his toys. He also started perching on the back of my chair when Jay-Jay and I were at the computer.

fry05

Epilogue

Fry lived with me for several years in an upgraded cage with lots of toys. He eventually died from leukemia.

The Problem with Giving your Bird a Mirror

March 15, 2016February 14, 2020 / feistyfeathers / 5 Comments

mirror

You’re worried your bird is not getting enough attention from you. Or maybe it starts out more simple. Perhaps your cockatiel has developed a crush on the toaster or the bathroom sink faucet. What’s wrong with giving your bird a mirror? Everything. Mirrors are psychologically damaging to your bird.

Birds a very social creatures. It is because of their strong flocking instincts that they can make such great pets. Many owners give their pets mirrors because they are afraid their bird will get lonely. If you are giving your bird its due attention and providing it with toys to play with while you are gone, you have no need to think your bird will become lonely.

So what exactly do mirrors do? The first thing most people notice is increased territoriality. Bird behaviorists are often contacted about cockatiels who are so attached to the toaster that they will viciously bite anyone who comes near it. They will isolate themselves from their owners and throw a fit if not near their “buddy.” Sadly, this is a lesser problem that mirrors cause.

The real problem is this: mirrors give your bird an incorrect perception of reality. They are NOT talking to another bird, they are talking to a reflection. Reflections can only mimic- they do not react in the same manner as a real bird would. Think of it this way: you have a young child. This is your only child so instead of letting him play with kids down the street you get him a mirror. The kid spends all his time talking and playing with his reflection. When he turns fifteen years old you send him to high school. How well do you think he’s going to socialize with real people who may not agree with him, may not like his looks, may look different than him, etc?

It is true that not all birds will eventually come into contact with other birds but let’s be realistic here. How do you know that down the line you won’t want another bird? How do you know that something might not occur that will force you to have to sell or give away your bird? Does the possibility that it may never meet another bird justify improper socialization?

Allow me to give you a case in point. In fall of 1999 I adopted a mitred conure, Fry. A woman had caught him outdoors in Southern California. He had been dive-bombing some local gardeners. He stayed with her a year before she ended up giving him to a friend of hers. This lady had him for six years. During that period, he had a mirror on top of his cage and had no access to real birds. His owner had just had a baby when I acquired him. This, and the fact that her husband hated the bird, were her motivations for giving him away.

I brought Fry home and immediately noticed that he lacked the ability to keep himself entertained, an essential skill for pet birds. I offered him plenty of toys but he ignored them. His cage was located on my dresser, which had a large mirror attached to the back. I covered the mirror with a towel but he chewed it to shreds to get to the mirror. I re-covered the mirror and moved the cage out of reach so he couldn’t chew it while inside. About a week later he started playing with the toys. He also became more interested in people. Instead of hanging out on top of his cage all the time or trying to steal my sun conure’s food, he’d jump over to my desk to watch me and Jay-Jay (the sun).

So what do you do if you have a single bird? Though it is not necessary, you can buy a second bird after the first one is tamed. If you do not want two birds, just make sure to give your bird lots of attention and keep those mirrors away! Birds can be kept singly just fine, but access to a mirror will teach them bad habits, as well as make them territorial and withdrawn.

Choosing a Cage

March 15, 2016March 20, 2016 / feistyfeathers

I get a lot of questions regarding what cage sizes are “adequate” for specific birds. The simple answer to this question has always been “Get the largest one you can afford.” However, picking out the right cage to meet your birds’ needs can be more complicated than that, especially if you are introducing more than one bird or mixing species. There are several things you should take into consideration when choosing a cage.

Height vs. Width
Birds fly side to side, not up and down. When I first started out breeding budgies I had a cage that was about 18″ wide and long and about 4′ high. It might as well have been 24″ high because that’s the extent of it that my budgies used. Birds need space, but not height. Width is much more important. Had the cage been 18″ wide and tall and 4′ long my budgies would have used the entire thing. Stick to rectangular cages that are longer/wider than they are tall.

Bird Size
How big are your birds? A macaw will need a much larger cage than a budgie. Many of the resources I’ve read tell you that the cage should be large enough for the bird to extend its wings without touching the bars, and large enough to turn around in without smacking the side. This is too small. For a hospital cage this would be fine because you are trying to restrict movement; however a day-to-day cage that the bird lives in should be double or triple this size. It should be able to hold two perches spaced greatly apart as well as toys.

Another funny thing about most parrots is that the smaller they are, the more space they need proportionally. Budgies require a huge amount of space when compared to a macaw (not quite to scale, but see below). This is due to their activity level. I cringe every time I see budgies kept in those tiny, blue, house-shaped cages that aren’t even one foot in ANY dimension. This is like a human being forced to live in their shower stall or closet!

Finches, budgies and smaller species typically require a ton of space when compared to a larger species. However, this doesn’t mean you should short-change your larger pets!

Activity Level
One budgie requires 2-3 times as much space as a cockatiel. Why? Because budgies are more active! This is why smaller birds need more space- generally they are much more active than the larger birds. You can see the difference just by picking them up: budgies and most parakeets “jump” onto your finger (or your shoulder, or your head…); parrots usually “step up,” rather than hop to you. Know your species: kakarikis, lovebirds and budgies are all extremely active. Nonpsittacine species like finches, toucans, mousebirds and other “softbills” are all very active. These birds require a huge amount of space no matter what their size- toucans require an aviary, macaws don’t.

This is not to say that all larger parrots are inactive and don’t require much space. It is important to keep in mind the activity level of the individual bird as well. When my mitred conure Fry died, I bought a Goffin cockatoo, Loki. Fry’s cage was brand new, and huge step up from the original cage he came in. Fry was a fairly inactive bird, so it suited him just fine. Loki, who is relatively the same size as Fry was, found this cage abysmally small. Loki is an extremely active bird, and also easily bored, which means that many toys are required to keep her interest. Fry’s cage was barely large enough for three of Loki’s toys, let alone Loki herself. I began searching for a new cage, and ended up getting macaw/large cockatoo cage. The new cage currently contains 12 toys (two more on the playstand above), and there is still room for her to hop about.

Loki’s new cage (left) vs her old cage (right).

How much time will the bird spend in the cage?
If you work away from home and your bird is locked up all day, then the cage needs to be very large. Like Loki’s cage, it should have plenty of room for toys, and also plenty of room for the bird to hop about. Fry’s cage [barely] had room for either one or the other. It’s easy to overestimate the size of an unfurnished cage. If you’re at a store, try placing a few toys inside to get a better feel for how much room you actually have to work with. If the bird won’t be able to move around much with three toys hanging inside, then the cage is too small. For a bird that is home all day, the cage should be able to fit at least 2-3 perches (one can be a swing), 4-6 toys, food dishes and the bird itself (with room to jump from perch to perch).

Playstands
If the bird is out of its cage for a good portion of the day, then the cage can be smaller. A birdie-safe “play area” will give your bird a change of scenery and allow it to interact more with you. If a bird is out all day (for those lucky people who work at home) the cage can be much smaller because your bird will only be using it at night. Playstands should make up for the lack of cage size and contain plenty of toys, perches and other goodies to keep your bird occupied.

Mutiple Birds and Mixing Species
More birds means more space. Bickering is normal but if certain birds are picked on more than others or if they are fighting over food/water/perches then the cage is probably too small. When mixing species you must take into account what each is like. Nonaggressive species like budgies and tiels can mix but only if the tiels have room to get away from the budgies, whose constant activity will drive them nuts. See my article on Colony Breeding for more tips.

Shapes
No round cages! No cute house-shaped cages! Cages should be designed for birds, not humans. Odd angles trap toes, create unused space and make cleaning and accessing the cage a nightmare. Stick to squares and rectangles.

Bar Spacing and Alignment
Most small species are fine with 1/2 spacing. Larger birds can have wider spacing, just not so wide that they can get their heads caught. Larger birds will also require thicker wire to keep them from chewing through. There should be plenty of horizontal bars. Clipped birds especially require these to help them get around the cage.

If your bird can do this, your bar spacing is too wide.

Finish
Many cages are galvanized. This is fine, but the process of galvanizing can leave traces of zinc and other metals on the wire which can kill your bird. Rinse all galvanized cages with a mixture of vinegar-water to remove these trace metals.

Bottom Grate
This feature keeps your birds from picking at dropped food and feces, as well as the substrate (you can use colored newspaper again!). I highly recommend getting a cage with this.

Acrylic Cages
These cages have their own distinct pros and cons. They are designed for optimal visibility and reduced mess. However, they contain no horizontal bars (although some now add a wire “climbing wall”), have reduced ventilation and climate control, and are extremely expensive.

Below are examples of actual cages offered for sale. I’ll start with some bad examples and then give you a few good designs.

Coast Cages Sunburst for Parakeets, Canaries & Finches

What’s Wrong

Very poor shape design. How is a bird going to utilize that space?
This cage is too small to fit any species. It would only be passable as a carrier.

Petco Delux Kit for Canary & Finch

“This deluxe starter kit begins with a stylish, quality cage…”

What’s Wrong:

Overall poor design and shape. What does “stylish” have to do with birds?
Too small for any bird, let alone an active finch.
Beware of “starter kits”- they are overpriced and may contain junk you don’t need (and not enough of what you do need).

Avian Select Parakeet Cages

What’s Wrong:

Round design- perfect for pinching toes.
Generally anything on a stand like this is going to be designed for humans and not for birds.
Too small, yet again.

Okay, enough of the crappy cages. Here are some good ones.

Giantex Bird Cage Large

What’s Right:

Rectangular design.
Adequate size for small/medium parrots
Generic playstand included
Bottom grate included
Metal seed catcher to reduce mess
On wheels to ease movement
Large, easy-access door and heavy-duty feeding crocks

Mcage Large Wrought Iron Flight Cage

What’s Right:

Large
Good bar spacing for small species
Plenty of horizontal bars
On wheels for easy transport and comes apart

Budgie (aka Parakeet)

March 15, 2016March 20, 2016 / feistyfeathers / 1 Comment

Melopsittacus undultatus

birds-1384136-640x480

First a word on definitions: Budgie is the correct term to use when referring to (M. undultatus). Though they are parakeets, a parakeet is any small parrot with a long tail. This includes cockatiels, kakarikis, all the birds in the genus Psittcula, most of the parrots in Australia, and many more. But there is only one budgie.

Two more terms you’ll often hear in reference to budgies are “American” and “English.” These are not separate species, just different breeds (Like dogs are all one species but there are many different breeds. The same goes for cats, chickens, and canaries.). Budgies are have the distinction of being the only psittacine with different breeds. English budgies are bred for show. They are large- about three times the size of an American. Americans are your typical pet shop budgie. All mine are American. I breed for color.

In the Wild
Budgies are native to the deserts of Australia. This means two things:

They are hardy.
They breed like rabbits.

In the desert rain is scarce. Birds who live there have to be able to nest and raise young very quickly whenever food becomes available. This ability to breed constantly has made budgies the most common pet bird in America and led to the establishment of hundreds of designer colors.

A male (left) trying to attract a female (right).

Noise
Male budgies chatter almost constantly and this is a good indication of a happy bird. Females don’t make much noise. Budgies are one of the top ten talking birds but none of mine have ever said a word.

Lifespan
They can live 10-15 years, sometimes more. Unfortunately, many don’t make it past age five due to tumors.

Sexing
Budgies are very easy to sex, both visually and by behavior. As I stated above, males chatter more than hens. Males will often show off and chatter endlessly when presented with a mirror, but so will some females kept singly. To sex visually you have to look at the cere- the fleshy area surrounding the nostrils. Adult males have a bright blue cere (unless they are a color that contains no black pigment, such as albino or lutino) and females have a crusty brown cere when in breeding condition (all colors). Hens may also have tan or white ceres.

A male budgie has a blue cere.

A female (bottom) has a brown cere.

Female (left) watching a male feed chicks.

Weaknesses
Budgies are tumor factories. If you take good care of your budgie and suddenly something is wrong with it (paralysis, blindness, etc.) a tumor is a good assumption (of course that doesn’t mean you don’t have to go to the vet). Tumors are usually seen in birds over 3 years of age. I’ve had three cases myself: Moonbeam, age 4, tumor pinched optic nerve and caused blindness; Arnold, age 5, tumor the size of my thumb on his abdomen caused him to stop breeding; Sweatpea, age 4-5, tumor on kidney pressed against spinal cord causing sudden paralysis, looked similar to egg-binding. Psittacosis is also seen frequently in budgies, but this maybe just because they are the most common pet birds.

Husbandry
Budgies are very active and deserve as big a cage as possible. Also, if you plan on owning a single budgie make sure you pay a lot of attention to it. If you can’t please get a second bird to keep it company. Budgies are very social and need other budgies to talk to.

Breeding
Just add a nestbox. Actually you should be more worried about getting them to stop breeding. Usually removing the box after 2-3 clutches will get them to stop, though some hens will continue to lay in their feed dish. Budgies are also prone to all kinds of nitpicky problems when bred communally. Baby budgies usually have stripes all the way down to their cere and a bit of black on their beak.

Diet
Regular psittacine diet. Budgies particularly love leafy green foods like parsely, carrot tops and lettuce.

Personality/Behavior
Budgies aren’t very cuddly, but they make great pets. I started out with one budgie and she’s what got me hooked on birds in the first place. They’re very active and sociable which makes them fun to watch, especially if you have an aviary full of them.

Pepper and Maggie hang out on my brother.

Which Bird is Right for You?

March 15, 2016March 20, 2016 / feistyfeathers / 1 Comment

Not sure what bird is right for you? Check these genus profiles. If a ? is noted it means I don’t have enough experience with the species to say.

tiel03_wfcinpearl_cin

Genus/Common Name	Nymphicus
Includes	Cockatiels
Size	Small.
Talking Ability	Limited. Good whistler.
Lifespan	20-25
Noise	Quiet, but their contact call may be annoying.
Dimorphic	Yes. See my Guide to Sexing Tiels Visually.
Comments	See species profile for more information. The cockatiel is a good beginner bird that enjoys being pet more than a budgie.

parrots-in-love-1351846-640x480

Genus/Common Name	Lories
Includes	Lories and lorikeets.
Size	Tiny to medium.
Talking Ability	?
Lifespan	?
Noise	Varies.
Dimorphic	No.
Comments	Very colorful and playful. Specialized diet (expensive and causes squirts).

loki17 Goffin cockatoo

Genus/Common Name	Cockatoos
Includes	Cockatoos
Size	Medium to large.
Talking Ability	Varies.
Lifespan	50-80
Noise	Quiet to loud. Large species are typically very loud. My Goffin is very quiet.
Dimorphic	No.
Comments	Very demanding pets, but playful and highly intelligent. They are the cuddliest birds you can find. Difficult to breed. Males known for killing, maiming, and trapping hens during breeding.

male-eclectus-parrot-1350890-639x852

Genus/Common Name	Eclectus
Includes	Eclectus
Size	Medium.
Talking Ability	Varies.
Lifespan	?
Noise	?
Dimorphic	Very. Males are green and females are red.
Comments	Matriarcal. Stunning colors and odd feather texture.

scarletchested04

A female scarletchested parakeet.

Genus/Common Name	Aussie Keets
Includes	Polytelis (suberb, regent, princess), king, Platycerus (rosellas), Psephotus (red-rump, mulga), Neophema (bourke, scarlet-chest, turquoise).
Size	Small to medium.
Talking Ability	Varies.
Lifespan	10-30
Noise	Pleasant.
Dimorphic	Some species are.
Comments	Good aviary birds but not commonly kept as pets. Rosellas are curious as pets and love to whistle.

budgies06 Budgies come in a variety of colors.

Genus/Common Name	Melopsittacus
Includes	Budgie.
Size	Small.
Talking Ability	Very good.
Lifespan	5-15
Noise	Constant chattering. Usually not offensive.
Dimorphic	Yes.
Comments	See species profile for more information. Great beginner pets, but they usually do not come tame.

tovi1

Genus/Common Name	Cyanoramphus
Includes	Kakarikis
Size	Small.
Talking Ability	Good.
Lifespan	10-?
Noise	Pleasant.
Dimorphic	Yes, but it takes experience.
Comments	See species profile for more information. Kakarikis are high energy pets that require a lot of space and supervision. They rarely sit still for long and make very entertaining pets.

lovebird-1-1379868-640x480

Genus/Common Name	Agapornis
Includes	Lovebirds.
Size	Small.
Talking Ability	Limited.
Lifespan	10-20
Noise	Like budgie only higher pitched.
Dimorphic	Some.
Comments	Make feisty and curious handfed pets.

colorful-parrot-1381014-639x957

Genus/Common Name	Psittacula
Includes	Indian ringneck, African ringneck, Alexandrine, plum-head, blossom-head, Derbyan, Moustached.
Size	Medium.
Talking Ability	Excellent.
Lifespan	20-30
Noise	Loud.
Dimorphic	Yes.
Comments	See species profile for more information. This genus is unfairly labeled “standoffish.” Ringnecks make excellent pets if well socialized. They are highly intelligent, curious and playful. They do tend to be strong willed and require a more experienced or assertive owner.

tovi7

Genus/Common Name	Poicephalus
Includes	Senegal, meyers, cape, jardine’s, brown-head.
Size	Medium.
Talking Ability	Moderate.
Lifespan	30-40
Noise	Quiet.
Dimorphic	No.
Comments	Good apartment birds. Senegals are the most popular.

parrots-1380029-640x480

Genus/Common Name	Ara
Includes	Macaws (extinct/endangered ones in other genus).
Size	Medium to large.
Talking Ability	Moderate.
Lifespan	80-100
Noise	Loud.
Dimorphic	No.
Comments	Not as popular as once were, perhaps due to size, expense and noise level. They are the larger relatives of conures. Intelligent and playful.

jayjay3 Sun conures are very popular due to their color.

Genus/Common Name	Aratinga.
Includes	Most conures. Nanday in another genus but the profile still applies.
Size	Medium.
Talking Ability	Limited.
Lifespan	30
Noise	Loud.
Dimorphic	No.
Comments	Very loud for size. Playful, curious pets. Very outgoing and fun-loving. Tend to become one-person birds if you let them.

gc conure Greencheek conure

Genus/Common Name	Pyrrhura
Includes	Green-cheek, maroon-belly, pearl, paint and most other small conures.
Size	Small.
Talking Ability	Limited.
Lifespan	30
Noise	Usually quiet.
Dimorphic	No.
Comments	Good for someone who likes conures but hates noise. These guys are smaller and generally much quieter.

parrot-5-1250337-639x852

Genus/Common Name	Brotogeris
Includes	White-wing, canary-wing, grey-cheek, and other “pocket parakeets.”
Size	Small.
Talking Ability	Moderate.
Lifespan	30
Noise	Loud.
Dimorphic	No.
Comments	Used to be available in large numbers. Very limited supply since importation stopped and these birds are difficult to breed. Known to be outstanding pets. Most of these birds should probably be in breeding programs though.

exotic-parrot-singing-1354249-639x425

Genus/Common Name	Poinites
Includes	Caique
Size	Medium.
Talking Ability	?
Lifespan	?
Noise	?
Dimorphic	No.
Comments	South American species. Curious and feisty.

parrotlet-1366819-639x553

Genus/Common Name	Parrotlet
Includes	Parrotlet
Size	Tiny to small.
Talking Ability	?
Lifespan	?
Noise	?
Dimorphic	I think some species are.
Comments	These guys are known as “mini amazons.” They have a large attitude for such small birds. They cannot be bred in colonies.

south-american-parrots-1362496-640x480

Genus/Common Name	Amazona
Includes	Amazons
Size	Medium.
Talking Ability	Excellent.
Lifespan	50-80
Noise	Loud.
Dimorphic	No.
Comments	Outgoing and boisterous. Some species more mellow (mealy, lilac-crown, orange-wing). Can be very aggressive during breeding displays. Get hyper easily. Some, like double yellow heads and yellow napes, love opera and will make up their own songs.

pionus4

Genus/Common Name	Pionus
Includes	Pionus
Size	Medium.
Talking Ability	Moderate.
Lifespan	50-80
Noise	Quiet.
Dimorphic	No.
Comments	Good apartment birds. Appealing to people who like South Americans but dislike noise.

african grey1

Genus/Common Name	Psittacus
Includes	African grey
Size	Medium.
Talking Ability	Excellent.
Lifespan	50-80
Noise	Quiet but like to pick up household noises to repeat constantly (much to the annoyance of some owners).
Dimorphic	No.
Comments	Highly intelligent and excellent mimics, but shy and sensitive. Can be badly affected by change if normally kept on a strict schedule. Plucking very common if stressed.

Shopping for a Bird

March 15, 2016March 20, 2016 / feistyfeathers

What kind of bird do you want?

The first thing you need to do is decide on the right species. This requires a bit of research and involves you knowing exactly what you want. I have a brief species guide here.

Size
How big do you want your bird? Size plays a large role in other bird characteristics. It can affect noise, the amount you’ll have to spend on a cage and toys, the lifespan and the price. The larger the bird, the more expensive it will be to set up and maintain.

Lifespan
Larger birds generally live longer. Budgies can live up to 15 but often die much earlier due to malnutrition or tumors. Cockatiels and other big smaller birds like conures and Senegals can live from 20-30. Most of the parrots like amazons and African greys can live 50-80. Macaws have been known to make it to 100. A larger bird means a much longer commitment.

Price
In general, the bigger the bird the larger the price tag. Species that are less common or more difficult to breed will also cost more. Galahs and Goffins are both similarly-sized cockatoos but Galahs are far more expensive. Newly-developed colors can also cost quite a bit.

Noise
Many parrots scream. If you live in an apartment or can’t handle a loud animal then you need to factor this into your decision. Volume isn’t the only thing to take into account though- if possible, research what your preferred species sound like. Sometimes a particular noise will be bothersome to you but not others.

exotic-parrot-singing-1354249-639x425

Character
Each species varies in character and it’s very important to pick one that you can get along with. Some people like cuddlers while others prefer boisterous birds that are more hands-off.

Availability
It’s no use picking a species that is very rare and belongs in a breeding program (unless that’s why you’re searching for it). Some species are available year-round while others will have babies at certain times of the year. If you’re adopting you may have a harder time finding your preferred species. Certain states in the U.S. breed more birds and will have a better selection.

Speech
This is the last quality in the world to be looking for in a bird. Anyone who picks a species solely on it’s ability to talk is making a grave mistake. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a nice thing to have, but it’s only the icing on the cake.

Once you’ve decided on a species you still need to buy it. The following are things you need to look for while you’re actually out shopping.

Movement
Birds that are moving around in the cage and making lots of noise are often healthy, happy birds.

Appearance
The bird should look healthy. Colors should be bright. Feathers, eyes, vent, nostrils and everything else should be clean.

This bird is sick. It’s slouching and it’s feathers are a bit ruffled and unkempt.

These birds appear healthy: clear eyes, neat feathers, ACTIVE posture.

Other Birds in the Cage
Check the other birds in the cage. Do they look bad? If so you’d best move along. Maybe they are ill and the one bird you like just isn’t displaying any symptoms yet.

Age
Recently I’ve seen more people pushing others to adopt birds rather than buy a baby. As a breeder I’m obviously biased, but I’ve taken in my share of older birds and I really don’t recommend it to novice owners. You’ll have no idea what kind of behavior problems a used bird may have, nor the experience to combat said problems. Training will be much more difficult. Underlying health problems are also a concern. You just don’t know what you’re getting. If you are new to birds I highly recommend getting a baby from a reputable source. You’ll be starting with a clean slate.

Price
In general don’t buy from pet stores. Their price will be double that of anything offered by a private breeder. Shop around to get an idea of what the usual price is.

Source
Again, avoid pet stores, especially if they are a larger chain like Petco. They have no business selling live animals and often buy animals from large scale wholesalers. The only exception would be a store that specializes in birds and has a good relationship with several reputable breeders.

The seller can tell you a lot about the bird being offered. You want to buy from someone who is knowledgeable, helpful, knows the bird’s history, and is reputable. If the seller is junk most likely the birds will be too.

Feisty Feathers

Educating bird owners since 1997.

pets

Bathing

Spray Misting

Share a Shower

Dish Bathing

Leaf Bathing

When Your Bird is Sick

Why every sick bird is an EMERGENCY

How to Know if your Bird is Sick

Choosing a Vet

The Initial Visit

What to Expect

What you need to do

Detecting Early Signs of Illness

What to Feed Your Bird

Introducing New Foods

Mitred Conure: Fry

“Butthead”

Fry

Changing Diets

The Mirror

Epilogue

The Problem with Giving your Bird a Mirror

Choosing a Cage

Below are examples of actual cages offered for sale. I’ll start with some bad examples and then give you a few good designs.

Okay, enough of the crappy cages. Here are some good ones.

Budgie (aka Parakeet)

Melopsittacus undultatus

Which Bird is Right for You?

Shopping for a Bird

What kind of bird do you want?

Once you’ve decided on a species you still need to buy it. The following are things you need to look for while you’re actually out shopping.